Monday, August 9, 2021

Chillon Castle (Chateau de Chillon)

Located on Lake Geneva, in the Canton of Vaud, Chillon Castle is an island castle built on the island of Chillon.  The island is an oval limestone rock on a narrow shore between Montreux and Villeneuve.  The name of the castle, according to Swiss ethnologist Albert Samuel Gatschet means "flat stone". In 1195 the name Castrum Quilonis literally meant "castle built on a rock platform."  The castle was built on the island for strategic reasons with one side of the island having a steep side while the other side juts into Lake Geneva.  The position of the castle meant it was able to guard the passage between the Vaud Riviera that gave access to the north towards Germany and France.  The castle was also positioned to to oversea a quick route to Italy and had an excellent view of the Savoyard Coast on the opposite side of the lake. The strategic position of the castle meant a garrison operating from Castle Chillon could control the road to Italy both commercially and for military reasons while collecting a toll for use of the passage.  

Chillon Castle in its current form took over seven centuries to construct.  The  build of Chillon Castle spanned over various, very distinct historical periods.  It was believed to initially be a military site during the Roman Period. Originally serving as a Roman outpost, Chillon Castle was a place from which the  roads that led through the Alpine passes could be guarded. In the nineteenth century Roman artifacts and bronze age artifacts were discovered at the castle. The site at first housed a double wooden palisade, a defensive stakewall and in the tenth century a square dungeon was added to the structure. It was then believed that the site fell into the possession of the Bishop of Scion.  A Roman Catholic ecclesiastical territory in the canton of Vaud, Scion was the oldest bishopric in the country.  

Not yet completely dated the oldest part of the castle as it is now was first mentioned in records in 1005.  Primarily built to control the road that led from Burgundy to the Great Saint Bernard Pass a charter dated 1150 mentions Count Hubert III, the Count of Savoy from 1148-1188, allowing the Cistercians of Hautcrêt free passage to Chillon.  The charter cited the owners of Chillon Castle as the Counts of Savoy who shared the rights to the castle with the sires of Blonay.  In 1214 Thomas I of Savoy founded the town of Villeneuve.  The family used their control of the route that passed in front of the castle leading to the new town of Villeneuve to collect tolls and cover maintenance of the roads.  The route was very popular with travellers, pilgrims and merchants who were heading towards Rome via the Great Saint Bernard Alpine Pass.  Construction and enlargement of the castle was carried out during the Savoy period of occupancy.  These were initiated by Count Thomas I of Savoy and carried on by his sons.  Pierre II, the master of the castle from 1255-1268 entrusted the work on the castle to Pierre Mainier, a cleric from Chambery.  Pierre II’ brother Philippe of Savoy succeeded his brother and employed Jacques de Saint-Georges, a specialist in military installation and a master mason and engineer, to work on Chillon Castle.

Chillon Castle was used as a temporary residence to the Savoy family who were required to travel around their extensive territories regularly.  As the castle required a full time keeper the Counts of Savoy nominated a castellan, usually chosen from Savoy aristocracy, to guard the castle. The castellan was in charge of not only guarding the castle but also levying the custom duties and the seigneurys income as well as dispensing justice.  During the second part of the thirteenth century the Duchy of Savoy was divided into several bailliages and the castellan of Chillon took on the duties of Bailiff of Chablais.  The castle became a centre for finance and administration for the northern Savoyard lands.  In the latter half of the Savoy Period a prison was built around the stone pillars and rocks beneath the castle.  The prison was said to have housed François de Bonivard, Prior of Saint-Victor in Geneva who was held for his opposition to the Savoys in 1530.  During his imprisonment de Bonivard was said to have paced as far as his chain would allow him to and the rut his pacing created still remains on the floor of the castle  His life and imprisonment became an inspiration for the poet Lord Byron when he visited Chillon Castle and heard of de Bonivard.  Byron subsequently was inspired to write his poem “The Prisoner of Chillon” 

 By  the end of the fourteenth century the administrative works had been centralised in Chambery.  In 1436, before becoming Pope Felix V, the Duke Amédée VIII sent a master builder, Aymonet Corniaux, to carry out important works to the castle, including modifying the defences on the walls and towers. This work did not continue and Chillon Castle was neglected and fell into disrepair.   

On March 29th 1536 rundown Chillon Castle fell into the hands of the Bernese.  The Savoy prisoners, including François de Bonivard were released.  The castle became the residence of the Bernese Bailiff.  Serving as the administrative bailliage of Vevey the Bailiff, who represented the monarch was obliged to carry out several duties during his residency in Chillon Castle.  In 1733 the Bernese bailiff left the castle and it was primarily used for storage.  In January 1798 the castle was occupied by patriots from Montreux and Vevey.  The castle became national property during the Vaud Revolution and was transferred to the canton of Vaud in 1803. Chillon Castle was taken care of by a caretaker and police guards.  Between 1836-38 the castle was altered and  primarily became a munitions store and prison.  Despite Chillon Castles utilitarian use, Lord Byrons poem  “The Prisoner of Chillon”and the romantic writings and artwork depicting the castle by other authors and artists,  resulted in it becoming a popular tourist destination.  

During the second half of the nineteenth century the restorations of monuments became a priority.  A systematic restoration of Chillon Castle using the application of archaeology and history was planned.  Pioneering specialist in restoration, Johann Rudolf Rhann, a founder of the Swiss Society of Historical Monuments and Henri de Geymüller, architectural historian were part of the team who drew up restoration plans for Chillon Castle.  The commission assigned with the task of restoring Chillon Castle first met on 27th October 1890 and by 1896 a framework for the Milestones for the Restoration Programme were printed in Lausanne.  The Chillon model of restoration was so exemplary that German Emporer William II inquired about it when planning restoration of the Fortress Haut-Koenigsbourg.  Chillon Castle has become a popular tourist destination and by 1939 was already attracting over 100000 visitors, a number that has subsequently increased over the years. 

With such a long and at times violent history it is not surprising that Chillon Castle is said to be haunted.  The most well known ghost is that of Agnès de Faucigny, a duchess and member of the house of Savoy through her marriage to Pierre II, Count of Savoy.   Footsteps, a drop in temperature and music have all been attributed to Agnès.  

I loved visiting Castle Chillon.  It is a beautiful castle and a wonder to explore.  I also enjoyed that Lord Byron was so inspired by the castle. The cafe at the castle is named after him and he has carved his name into the walls of the dungeon that inspired him to write “The Prisoner of Chillon”.  The castle is filled with actual furniture from its various inhabitants.  It is a place you must visit if you are ever in Switzerland.


































































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