Sally Lunn's Historic Eating House and Museum

One of the oldest buildings in Bath, Sally Lunn's House stands on the foundations of a Roman building dating back over 1800 years.  The human use of the hot springs at Bath were believed to have started 10000 years ago but the Celts, Romans and Christians venerated the springs as a sacred place.  The Celts erected a shrine structure around 700 BC, dedicated to the goddess of water, Sulis.  Soon after the arrival of the Romans in England in around 43 AD the Celtic Goddess was taken over by the Roman Goddess Minerva, a healing deity.  From around 65AD the Romans built more and more elaborate structures and temples at the springs.  

Sally Lunn's House is built on two structures.  The first structure was a Roman building.  The cellar level of Sally Lunn's has evidence of Roman inhabitants.  The remains of a Roman hypocaust, an ancient type of central heating that was used to heat buildings and Roman baths,have been discovered.  Painted plaster, Samian pottery, pottery from the Roman Period and mosaic tiles have also been excavated.  The remains of a mortarium, or mortar, used to tease flavour from various plants, also hints at the possibility the site was used for the preparation of food.  

In 1091 the Norman King William II, granted chaplain and doctor, John de Villula, the Bishop of Wells,  the city of Bath and the existing Saxon Abbey, built around 757AD.   Work began on a massive Norman cathedral, complete with a Bishop's Palace.  Work was interrupted by a fire in 1137 but the cathedral was finally consecrated between 1148AD and 1161AD.    The cathedral became home to Benedictine Monks. By the 1500s the Norman Church was seriously run down resulting in Bishop Oliver King instigating repairs.  In 1539 Henry VIII dissolved the Monastery and dispersed its land and structures.  

Bath Abbey became the property of the Colthurst family.   Henry Colthurst sold it in 1612 to John Hall of Bradford-on-Avon.  A lease was then granted to carpenter George Parker in 1622.  Parker built the present timber framed house on the remains of the south side of the Abbey.  In the north cellar of Sally Lunn's House the foundation wall of the monasteries refectory and kitchen are still evident.  The remains of a large faggot oven are also visible.  The faggot oven is a design that dates back to Roman times and was popular until the seventeenth century.  A bundle of tied together twigs, a faggot, were burnt in the oven, the ashes were then removed and the oven was cleaned with a scuffle, a stick with a cloth on the end.  The stones retained the heat and could be used to bake bread.  

Sally Lunn's House has changed little since the seventeenth century and is a great example of Pre- Georgian, Bath, which was dominated by gabled roofs and narrow streets. Charles II was restored as King in 1660 after Cromwell and the somber mood of the country was replaced by more joy and lightheartedness.  Bath became a popular resort amongst the wealthy and fashionable.  

In 1680 a young French Huguenot refugee called Solange Luyon arrived in Bath.  She was able to find employment with a baker who operated in Lilliput Lane, near the Abbey.  Solange originally had the job of selling the baker's wares from a basket in the lanes around Bath Abbey. Unfamiliar with the pronunciation of the name Solange, she became known locally as Sally Lunn.  It was soon discovered that Sally had a talent for baking and she began to make a rich brioche bun, most likely inspired by French festival bread she would have sampled in her youth in France. Sally Lunn's bun was made to be coupled with both sweet or savoury accompaniments.  The bun quickly became a popular Georgian delicacy. The buns became a treat at the fashionable breakfasts held at the spring gardens in Bath.

 

During the 1700s Sally Lunn's House was renovated with the street level being raised and a cellar made out of the original ground floor.  A grand reception hall with Hanoverian Arch was created on the ground floor.  The fireplaces and ovens were modernised to burn coal.  In 1798, with the closure of the Spring Gardens, the rights to Sally Lunn's recipes where sold to baker William Dalmer.  Using a custom built portable oven, Dalmer sent Sally Lunn's buns out each morning.  In 1743 the Duke of Kingston, who had acquired the land and house  from John Hall sold Sally Lunn's House to William Robinson.  The house was sold several times and from 1781 to 1786.  James Wicksteed operated a seal engraving business from the premises.  The building became a bakery again around the turn of the century.  It went through the hands of several families before being taken over by Edward Culverhouse who baked there from 1903 until he emigrated to Australia in 1919.  The next owners, the Griffiths family, turned the building into a general store but it became rundown.  

In 1937 Marie Byng-Johnson acquired the building and carried out extensive restorations during which a cache of Sally Lunn's recipes were discovered. Sally Lunn's House was restored to its former glory once again becoming the home of the famed Sally Lunn buns.  

It is believed that Sally Lunn's House is haunted by a Benedictine monk that is heard chanting at night.  During the time that the Benedictine Monks inhabited the large Norman Cathedral, the Black Plague swept through the monastery claiming the lives over over half the monks.  

Bath is a beautiful historic city and what I remember most was the beautiful rose coloured stone that many of the buildings are constructed of.  Sally Lunn's Historic Eating House and Museum is a lovely place for afternoon tea and to sample one of the famed buns.   

Hampton Court Palace

In 1236, The Knights of Hospitaller of St John Jerusalem acquired the manor of Hampton. A medieval Catholic military order, later to become the Military Order of Malta, The Knights of Hospitaller of St John Jerusalem, used the site of Hampton as a grange.  Serving as an agricultural centre the Knights stored and kept accounts at the site.  Later, in 1494, the property was leased and modernised by Sir Giles Daubeney to facilitate him being closer to London.  A soldier, courier, diplomat and politician Daubeney worked for Henry VII, the monarch and his wife being frequent guests at the peaceful Hampton residence of Daubeney. 

Cardinal Wolsey aquired Hampton Court in 1514 and began renovations a year later.  Wolsey was a churchman, statesman and a cardinal of the Roman Catholic Church.  In 1509 Wolsey became King Henry VIII almoner serving as a chaplain to the king and among his tasks he was in charge of distributing money to the poor.  By 1514 Wolsey was the controlling figure in matters of the state as well as being powerful in the church. Wolsey set about transforming Hampton Court into a Grand palace that was decorated with rich and opulent furnishings and decorations.  Wolsey used the property to entertain and its exuberance inspired John Skelton, HenryVIII former tutor, to comment that "The Kings Court should have the excellence but Hampton Court hath the pre-eminence". In 1529 Henry VIII took over the works at Hampton Court. 

Following issues with the Catholic Churches denial of an annulment of his marriage to Catherine of Aragon due to her inability to produce an heir, Henry VIII turned on the Catholic Church and Wolsey fell from favour.  Wolsey was then made the Archbishop of York.  In 1530 Henry VIII and his councillors sent the first of several threatening letters to Wolsey from Hampton Court.  Wolsey was summoned to return from York and died enroute. 

In 1537, following a marriage to Anne Boleyn and her subsequent execution, Henry VIIIs third wife, Jane Seymour gave birth at Hampton Court. The baby, Prince Edward, was baptised in the chapel at Hampton Court but died soon after of complications. Following the difficult birth Jane Seymour died of an infection.  Henry VIII married Anne of Cleves but then decided he wanted to marry another woman and the marriage is annulled.  Anne of Cleves is given the title "The King's Sister" after signing the divorce papers in Hampton Court.  In 1540 Henry VIII married  Catherine Howard, his fifth wife and she was proclaimed Queen.  Following accusations of an early sexual liaison she was placed under house arrest in Hampton Court.  She was said to have run screaming through the palace looking for the King to plead her innocence after breaking free from the guards.  Henry VIII ignored her cries and she was dragged back to her rooms shrieking before later being executed at the Tower of London.  In 1543 Henry VIII married  his sixth and final wife, Kateryn  Parr, in the Chapel Royal in Hampton Court.  

During his time at Hampton Court Henry VIII created a pleasure garden for recreation and a hunting park of more than 1100 acres.  He added tennis courts, bowling alleys, a chapel and a huge communal dining room.  He created the Great House of Easement, a lavatory that could seat 28 people. The kitchens of Hampton Court covered 36000 square feet. In August of 1546 Henry VIII was said to have feted and feasted the French ambassador, his 200 men and 1300 members of his Court for six days.  The palace was surrounded by an encampment of gold and red velvet tents for the occasion. 

Each of Henry VIII three children spent time at Hampton Court.  Between 1558 and 1603 Elizabeth I visited Hampton Court regularly.  Court masques, theatrical events and court entertainment were held at Hampton Court.  In 1603 William Shakespeare and his company "The Kings Men" performed plays in the Great Hall for Queen Elizabeth's successor James I.  Originally from Scotland where he was King James VI, James I made the palace a party palace of sorts and called the Hampton Court Conference which commissioned the King James Bible.  Jame's wife Anne died at Hampton Court.  

James' son Charles I continued working on Hampton Court.  Charles I built new tennis courts and dug Longford River.  He was a well known art buyer and bought Mantegnas "Triumphs of Caesar". In 1645 troops seized the palace and began selling the treasures.  Oliver Cromwell who became Lord Protector during the civil war spent his weekends at Hampton Court even holding his daughters wedding at the grand palace.  In 1647 Charles I was held prisoner at Hampton Court.  After managing to escape he was caught and executed. 

By 1660 the monarchy was restored and Charles II ascended the throne.  He chose to spend his time at Windsor but used Hampton Court to house his mistress, Barbara Villiers, the Countess of Castlemaine  and her children.  When William III and his wife Mary II ascended the throne they commissioned Sir Christopher Wren to remodel Hampton Court. Wren was one of the most highly acclaimed architects of his time.  With the assistance of William Talman, architect and landscape designer, Wren drew up elaborate plans for a huge Baroque palace centred around two courtyards. During this work much of the Tudor palace was replaced and Henry VIIIs state rooms were removed. The east and south facade of the palace were completely transformed and the Tudor towers were replaced by elegant Baroque chimneys.  They constructed two Royal suites of equal beauty, reflected the unique situation of the shared sovereignty of William and Mary.  Beautiful Frescos adorned the staircase painted by Antonio Verrio, an Italian born artist who served the British monarchy for over thirty years.  The railings were created by French Huguenot ironworker, Jean Tijou.  The furnishings were designed by Daniel Marot, a French architect, furniture designer and engraver.  A Chocolate Kitchen was built for King William and Queen Mary as part of the Baroque renovations 

Following the death of Queen Mary, William lost interest in Hampton Court and all renovations were stopped.  After falling from his horse in Hampton Court Park in 1702 William died and his sister-in-law became Queen Anne.  The renovations of Hampton Court began again under Queen Anne, who particularly enjoyed hunting at Hampton Court.  When Queen Anne died in 1714, the Stuart line ended and her successor, George I began new renovations on Hampton Court.  He commissioned John Vanbrugh, architect and dramatist, well known for his designs such as Howard Castle, to design six new rooms. George I also bought a personal chocolate maker to Hampton Court who had his own rooms in the palace.  The chocolate maker, Thomas Tosier already owned a Chocolate House in the famed Chocolate Row in Greenwich. Thomas and his wife, Grace were so famous because of their chocolate house that they were mentioned in social pages.  In 1721 they even added a room just for dancing in their personal chocolate house.  A painting of Grace done by artist Bartholomew Daindridge hangs in the Hampton Court Chocolate Kitchen depicting her with a flower in her bosom, one of her trademarks. The  Chocolate Kitchen was located off the Fountain Court at Hampton Court, along with a spicery and a confectioners.  The Fountain Court was said to have smelled wonderful. 

When George II was made king he and his wife Anne of Ansbach commissioned architect William Kent to refurbish the furnishings and design of the Queen's Staircase and the Cumberland Suite.  George II was the last monarch to reside at Hampton Court.  George III never set foot in the palace, apparently associating it with a humiliating experience where his grandfather struck him for a seemingly innocent remark.  In 1796 further restorations were carried out with Queen Victoria completing the restorations. 

Throughout the 20th century Hampton Court has become a major tourist attraction as well as housing  fifty Grace and Favour residences.  These residences are given rent free to a person as part of an employment package or in gratitude for services rendered.  In modern times Hampton Court  has been used in films and in 2012 it was the site for the Road Cycling Time Trials for the Summer Olympics. In 2015 Hampton Court celebrated its 500th anniversary and in 2016 the Catholic Archbishop of Canterbury held the first Catholic service in Hampton Court in 450 years. 

With such a long and colourful history it is not hard to see why there are many reports of alleged hauntings in Hampton Court.  The 'haunted gallery' as it has been dubbed was the scene of Catherine Howard's desperate escape from her guards and run to find the King, Henry VIII, her husband and beg for clemency.  She was recaptured and imprisoned and eventually executed.  Her ghost is said to frequent the gallery.  There have been reports of women fainting in the same spot where Catherine Howard ran.  Grace and Favour residents have reported screams in the gallery when it is supposedly empty.  A white figure, thought to be Catherine Howard has been seen floating down towards the Royal Pew before turning with a look of despair on her face, shrieking.  

Around 1829 the ghost of Dame Sibell Penn, a servant to four Tudor Monarchs, started appearing as a grey lady. She purportedly died in 1562. Her ghost was said to have begun appearing around the time her tomb was disturbed and moved to facilitate the rebuilding of a church near Hampton.  Her ghost is said to be linked to the sounds of a spinning wheel, one which was discovered in a walled up small room.  Her ghost is seen, even in modern times, wandering in the Tudor courtyards and cloisters. 

In the beautiful Clock Court a figure, believed to be Henry VIII third wife, Jane Seymour has been seen carrying a lighted taper.  She died of an infection after the birth and death of her son Edward.  

A spectre dubbed the Wolsey dog has been seen by several people in the Wolsey closet.  In October 2003 a very strange and spooky event was caught on CCTV.  Palace officials have no idea what or who this figure is. Watch the link and decide for yourself. 

https://youtu.be/7sjzjyfPJqA

I loved my visit to Hampton Court.  It was so beautiful.  The architecture and design is magnificent and it isn't difficult to feel transported back in time.  I particularly loved the courtyards.